Tuesday, 10 November 2009

DIY is a major facet of today’s homeownership lifestyle. The trend of people exchanging the often costly practice of hiring builders and other similarly qualified professionals to do manual construction and fixing work within their own property, for the money saving method of simply doing it yourself boomed in the 1960’s and 70’s. This popular cultural outlook gave rise to an enormous amount of educational material in the form of books and magazines, enabling more homeowners to work on their own properties.

A survey by Halifax claims that Britain's enthusiasm for DIY is set to continue as mortgage holders seek to make their properties more valuable. It says that a quarter of homeowners that performed DIY in the last year, did so to add value to their homes, and over half of those that did so believe that their work could add up to £5,000 to their properties.
Other sources suggest that there is in fact a decrease in people undertaking DIY which, as a consequence, has led to a large reduction in sales from DIY retailers. A May 2007 article in Marketing Week suggests that the changes are too big to be dismissed as a statistical anomaly. It goes on to say “There is a fundamental shift in attitudes taking place, a result of an ageing population and the feelings of security, even complacency, which have come with the UK's 15-year consumer boom.
“We've known that the UK population has been ageing for the past 30 years, but the baby boom has been a great driver of DIY growth. As that peak in the birth profile has aged it has distorted demand at every stage. Over the past decade the baby-boomers were in their 50s - the prime age to do DIY. But the baby-boomers were 60 last year and are now less physically able to do DIY and are losing interest in it anyway. On the whole "third-agers" prefer to take holidays.”
The article continues to mention that the problem doesn’t lie just with the ageing population, but also with the 25-34 year old age group. The problem, it seems, is that as house prices rise, less potential first time buyers can afford to buy a property. However those who do are often unable to afford the costs of renovating.
As we pass the halfway point in 2009, with the current economic climate having changed somewhat since the article in Marketing Week, perhaps a change of events is occurring right now.
Other developments in the trends of DIY from its beginnings suggest that more women engage in renovation work within their home than before, although this information is only drawn from recent small polls. Traditionally DIY appeared to be for the ‘man of the house’ with a masculine stigma attached, though this seems to have changed in recent years.
A recent poll on DIY advice website lets-do-diy.com shows an interesting conclusion to the question, ‘who is better at DIY, men or women?’
“Everyone at lets-do-diy.com is surprised by the strength of feeling expressed in the forum,” says Mr Burry, the websites editor. “Both sides of the debate have put their case with amusing anecdotes and scathing attacks on the DIY capabilities of the opposite sex.”

He continues: “On a serious note, the poll clearly suggests that today many more women are undertaking home improvement projects and consequently DIY is no longer the predominantly male activity it once was.”
To date over eight hundred people have voted in the poll with the division of opinion currently standing at 54% to 46% in favour of men being more proficient at DIY.

For more information visit lets-do-diy.com for videos .

Thursday, 3 September 2009

Different radiators

There are a variety of electrical and alternative features for your bathroom, many of which serve practical as well as attractive purposes. Here we look at two types of radiator that you may wish to install; the heated towel rail and the electric radiator. Radiators are generally rated in terms of core dimension and the number of rows of tubes used. Larger cores and more tubes mean a greater capacity. The most common material used for radiator manufacturing is traditionally a combination of brass and copper, but modern units are often aluminium.

Before choosing your radiator, you must determine how much heat the bathroom requires. This is done by using the radiator manufacturer’s heat loss calculations (your radiator installer can do this when quoting). The most accurate calculations take room measurements, including the window and outside wall sizes. They calculate the temperature required and apply this to determine the radiator size. Too big and the system will exceed its temperature requirement and be uneconomical to run, too small and it won't reach its desired temperature.

Heated towel rails are an alternative to common radiators as they provide a rail for hanging towels, act as radiators and possess a popular, modern style. There are many different designs and styles of heated towel rail but the most popular are the ladder type, which are usually available in a white or chrome finish. Choosing the right model needs some consideration.

Heated towel rails are designed to be plumbed in to your central heating system in the same way as a radiator, but there are two other installation options.

Dual Fuel Option - the towel rail can be installed with an electrical heating element that fits inside one of the vertical rails. Special radiator valves are used which enable the radiator to be isolated from the heating system and warmed using the electric element. This is very useful in summer months when your heating may be off.

Oil Filled Option - with this option the towel rail is not connected to your heating system, and is heated by electricity alone. The towel rail is factory fitted with a heating element and filled with special oil, ready for connection to your electricity supply.


All radiators have different heat outputs depending on the size and design. Make sure that you are replacing a radiator with a heated towel rail of similar output; otherwise you might notice a drop in temperature in the bathroom.

Electric radiators are an option if you do not wish to install a standard, centrally heated type. Conventional radiators need to be attached to the existing system, and this may be a hassle that electric radiators avoid. Many new electric models claim to save energy in the long term; this becoming a popular feature for money and energy saving people. They also possess a timer which can be set to turn on or off at particular times to suit the user. Although electric radiators are generally more bulky than their counterparts, there are an increasing number to choose from, allowing the buyer a wide selection choice.

Monday, 20 July 2009

The benefits of a low-flow toilet

When considering installing a new toilet, there are a few things to contemplate. Firstly it is important that the toilet meets the recommended flushing limit. In the 1960’s, toilets were larger than the ones we use today and used around 32 litres of water every time someone flushed them. Today, low-flow toilets are pretty much standard. These basic, yet effective toilets are focused on conserving water and only use around 7.2 litres of water per flush making them the customary option on the market today.

One of the most obvious benefits of low-flow toilets is the fact that they conserve water. The average person flushes the toilet six times each day. Low-flow toilets use approximately 172 litres less water per day than other toilets. This creates massive water conservation. Using less water is also beneficial to consumers as it saves money. Due to the fact that low-flow toilets use a smaller amount of water than other toilets, their tanks don't need to be as large. This makes the toilet smaller, and thus generally more attractive.

The environmental and economical benefits are a big plus; however it must be considered that toilets have been reduced in size and thus struggle to remove as much waste as older toilets.

If the benefits of a low-flow toilet outweigh the drawbacks to the consumer, then they are a perfectly worthwhile purchase. Almost all new toilets are low-flow varieties anyway. The money you spend to purchase the toilet can be regained in a few years by the amount of money you save using less water.

Another option for a suitable toilet is the dual flush design. This refers to the two buttons that are used to operate the toilet. Pressing one button will flush the toilet with about 3 litres of water and is generally referred to as a short flush. Pressing the other button will release about 6 to7 litres of water and is called a long flush.

Despite the use of the words "short" and "long," the long flush of a dual flush toilet generally uses less than half of the water that is needed in a normal toilet, which by and large uses around 20 litres of water per flush. The dual flush can decrease the amount of water used by up to 60 percent when compared to a traditional flush toilet, and these savings are reflected in the water bill, making them a popular addition in money saving households and businesses.

While a dual flush toilet is more expensive than a traditional flush toilet, the savings gained from reduced water usage make it cost effective over the long term. What's more, you will be playing your part in saving resources.

If you have decided and are ready to purchase a low-flow or dual flush toilet, make certain to do your homework and compare brands and types. Some do a better job of disposing of waste than others, and research by experts can inform you of toilets that are good quality and best buys.







More tips and advice for replacing a toilet, replacing a bath or replacing and descaling a shower head can be found at lets-do-diy.com


resource link:

Friday, 3 July 2009

Tips and advice when tiling

Tiling is a good skill to learn, and when done well, the job should not ordinarily have to be repeated or repaired. When deciding to tile a room you must consider the tiles purpose in its environment. Ceramic tiles can be applied to many different surfaces but each may require a different preparation. Bare plaster is the ideal surface on which to apply ceramic tiles, but ensure the plaster is sound.

Newly plastered walls should always be treated with a polyvinyl acetate (PVA) sealant solution - five parts water to one part PVA. This will seal the surface and promote adhesion.

To determine the number of tiles you will need, calculate the surface area of the wall by multiplying the length of the wall by its height (or by the height you wish to tile up to). This should be done for each surface you are planning to tile; then the figures for each surface should be added together. Always add at least 10% to your final figure to allow for wastage and cutting, and then divide the total surface area by the area of one tile.

Tiling adhesive is available as a dry powder that you mix with water or in ready-mix tubs, which can be used as both adhesive and grouting. Remember that some surfaces may require a particular adhesive e.g. shower cubicles, so ask at your local DIY store if you are not sure.

Remember not to lay the adhesive more than 4mm thick. Apply the adhesive evenly over the surface, but avoid covering too large an area as it may dry before you fit the tiles.

Finally, when grouting, make sure the adhesive has been given enough time to go hard (ideally 12 hours). Also check that there is nothing protruding above the surface of the tile that will get in the way of the grout. Finish off by using a grout shaper to create a smooth finish.


More tips and advice for fixing ceramic wall tiles, fixing mosaic tiles to a wall or replacing a damaged tile can be found at lets-do-diy.com

An easy way to saving energy and water

With increasing pressure to save energy and water, homeowners can sometimes sacrifice the use of a bath, for the more stringent shower. When deciding whether to install a bath or a shower you may want to consider which of the two saves more water. Taking a shower instead of a bath is a commonly known money/energy saving tip. To save water through shower usage depends on the time you spend in the shower and how quickly the shower head dispenses water. A typical bathtub requires about 30 gallons for a bath. A standard shower head will flow about 3 gallons per minute. In five minutes, this uses only 15 gallons of water.



Using a low-flow shower head can cut the total water usage to less than ten gallons saving thousands of gallons of water per year. Depending on your showerhead and whether it has a flow restrictor in it and how long you shower, the answer could oscillate either towards shower or bath.



There are two types of low-flow shower heads: aerating and non-aerating.



Aerating - mixes air into the water stream. This maintains steady pressure so the flow has an even, full shower spray. Because air is mixed in with the water, the water temperature can cool down a bit towards the floor of the shower. Aerating shower heads are the most popular type of low-flow shower head.



Non-aerating - air is not mixed into the water stream. This maintains temperature well and delivers a strong spray. The water flow pulses with non-aerating shower heads, giving more of a massaging showerhead effect.



More tips and advice for fitting a bathroom sink, installing a shower or wiring an electric shower can be found at lets-do-diy.com

Monday, 11 May 2009

Product review

If you want to see some DIY product reviews visit lets-do-diy.com. They review the latest products on the market.

Some of the reviews so far include video reviews of The Bricky and the Bosch Uneo.

Monday, 16 March 2009

DIY competitions

There are some great DIY competitions around at the moment, where you can win anything from £25 cash to a power tool.

Just take a look at these DIY competitions:
DIY competition win a Torinio
DIY competition win an Autowrench

Wednesday, 11 March 2009

Insulating a loft

Join an existing conversation or create a new thread related to Building in our DIY forum.

One of the ways to make substantial savings on your home heating bills is to insulate the loft. Not only can you save money on your heating bills, you may be eligible for a grant to carry out the work. Your local council or Citizens Advice Bureau will be able to provide you with the relevant information.

Insulating materials for insulating a loft
The two most common forms of loft insulation are blanket insulation and loose-fill insulation. Blanket insulation is made from glass fibre, mineral fibre or rock fibre and is sold in large rolls. All three materials are non-flammable and will have been treated against vermin, damp and rot. The rolls of insulating material are usually 6 - 8m long (20 - 25ft) and up to 400mm wide (16in). The thickness of the material can be 100, 150 or 200mm (4, 6 or 8in), but the thicker the insulation the less heat will be lost.


Blanket insulation
The rolls of insulating material are usually unbacked but can come with a paper backing to prevent tearing of the fibre or a foil backing. Rolls of blanket insulation with a foil backing are used when a vapour barrier is required.
Warm moist air from heated rooms will travel to cold unheated areas such as lofts, producing condensation. Over time this will reduce the effectiveness of the insulation and may even cause dry rot in the roof beams. A vapour barrier is used to prevent this.
The foil backing laid against the warm side of the insulation creates a barrier preventing the warm moist air passing into the loft. Rolls of polythene backed insulation material are also available and will serve the same purpose.


Loose-fill insulation
The most common forms of loose-fill insulation are exfoliated vermiculite and mineral fibre. Loose-fill insulation material is supplied in bags, which will cover an area of

DIY guide to loft conversions

The loft makes up a large proportion of a property’s internal space: space that more often than not is under utilised. This space has enormous potential and with careful planning a loft conversion can greatly enhance the overall living experience, in addition to increasing the property’s value.
Image supplied by Skyline Loft Conversions, Bristol
It is generally accepted that a loft conversion can increase the habitable floor space of a two-storey property by as much as 30%. And with loft conversions usually being less expensive than building an extension onto the property, it is no surprise that converting the loft has become so popular.
A loft conversion of any kind involves a great deal of work, so detailed planning is essential. Although there is an almost endless variety of loft sizes and shapes, all loft conversions should be approached in a similar way. In this article we intend to look at the points that need to be considered to enable you to realise the full potential of your loft.
Next page: How roof designs influence loft conversions

New DIY website launches to rave reviews

A new website has been launched for everyone with an interest in DIY. www.lets-do-diy.com provides step-by-step instructions on how to carry out a wide range of DIY projects. Currently there are almost 180 projects covering everything from relatively simple tasks like changing a tap washer to far more complex jobs such as installing a roof window.

The site is the brainchild of Bath company lets-do-diy Ltd and took two years to develop. The content is frequently updated to bring visitors the latest news on tools and materials, product reviews, a humorous look at DIY disasters, plus tips and advice. Furthermore, each month a feature article on a specific DIY subject is published.

Already the site has received a positive reaction. When lets-do-diy.com featured on an independent review website users were unanimous in their praise, rating the site highly for content, navigation, speed and design. Reviewed over a two month period lets-do-diy.com achieved a final overall score of 4.97 out of a maximum of 5.

“We’re delighted with feedback from visitors to the site and from the DIY industry,” said John Burry, editor of lets-do-diy.com. “As we continue developing the site and introduce new projects and features, we believe lets-do-diy.com will become a valuable resource for both the DIY novice and the experienced home improver.”

For further information visit www.lets-do-diy.com or call 01225 316940.

DIY Sparks Sex War

An online poll asking who is better at DIY – men or women – has erupted into a fierce battle between the sexes. The poll is featured on the home improvement and DIY website http://www.lets-do-diy.com/. And the huge response it has generated seems to indicate that the most explosive area for gender conflict has shifted from the traditional battleground of driving ability to DIY.

The website’s editor, John Burry, says: “We thought asking if men or women were better at DIY would provide lets-do-diy.com with a little light relief, but both sexes appear to have very strong views on the subject.”

Hundreds of visitors to the site have voted, but the battle is raging at its most fierce in the website’s forum where dozens of comments have been posted.

“Everyone at lets-do-diy.com is surprised by the strength of feeling expressed in the forum,” says Mr Burry. “Both sides of the debate have put their case with amusing anecdotes and scathing attacks on the DIY capabilities of the opposite sex.”

He continues: “On a serious note, the poll clearly suggests that today many more women are undertaking home improvement projects and consequently DIY is no longer the predominantly male activity it once was.”

To date over eight hundred people have voted in the poll with the division of opinion currently standing at 54% to 46% in favour of men being more proficient at DIY. But with the poll running until the end of March, the final result is far from clear.

To see how the poll stands at present visit http://www.lets-do-diy.com/

Saving Energy and Money

For many people the recent cold weather will have highlighted how a severe winter combined with steep increases in oil, gas and electricity prices could result in financial hardship. But help is at hand.

The DIY and home improvement website www.lets-do-diy.com is currently offering advice on how to cut domestic fuel bills this winter. Under the heading “Get Switched On To Saving Energy” the main areas where energy is lost are identified and a range of measures recommended for improving energy efficiency – resulting in lower domestic fuel bills.

Many of the energy saving solutions discussed are relatively inexpensive and simple to install, and include insulation, draught proofing and secondary glazing.

Information is also provided on various agencies offering grants to fund part or all of the work required to make your home more energy efficient.

The website’s editor John Burry said: “Many households are facing an increase of almost 40% in their heating and lighting bills this winter. But by carrying out the energy saving recommendations in the lets-do-diy.com article, domestic energy bills can be reduced dramatically.”

Find out how to cut your household energy bills this winter by visiting DIY tips for saving energy and money

Sanding wooden floors

I am looking at sanding my floor boards again. After 12 years in my house the bathroom floor needs re-sanding. Last time I had terrible trouble, knocking the nails down, then getting an industrial sander. Man what a nightmare it took loads of work. Still I guess once youve done it you know better for next time. Its a good job there are sites like lets-do-diy to offer advice now.
sanding a wooden floor

Thursday, 5 March 2009

DIY toilet repairs

I wish I had found this article before attempting to repair my toilet, replacing a toilet it would of saved me ages of draining the cistern, tightening nuts and filling in holes with silicone because it still leaks.
What a nightmare, still we have a nice psh button flush now, all I need to do is get my son to remember to lift the seat and flush afterwards, kids eh

Monday, 23 February 2009

Fitting basins and bidets

Fitting basins and bidets
Washbasins come in a wide selection of styles that include pedestal basins, countertop basins and wall-mounted basins. When choosing a new basin for your bathroom the considerations of space, style, ease of cleaning and the type of walls you have should influence your decision. To install a bidet, follow the same installation process as for basins.


Before you start

First, ensure the water supplies are turned off to both the hot and cold water taps.
If your supply pipes do not already have service valves connected, use this opportunity to install them to allow you to cut off the water in the future.

Installing a wall-mounted basin

  • If you are wall-mounting a basin, use a spirit level to ensure a plumb line and mark out the area of the basin on the wall.
  • Mark the fixing positions ensuring they are level, drill the holes and insert wall plugs.
  • Insert the brackets supplied into the holes. Then place the basin on the brackets and tighten the nuts to secure the basin firmly in place.
  • Attach the flexible connectors to the taps.
  • Place a washer on either side of the tap hole, and insert the flexible connectors into the hole, securing them with the nut underneath.
  • Position a washer on either side of the plughole.
  • To connect the waste assembly, push the top section of the waste assembly (with the plug attached) down through the plughole, and push the bottom part up to meet it.
  • Screw a bottle trap on to the bottom of the waste assembly.
  • If you are connecting a pop-up waste system, insert the rod with the lever into the tap. Fix the other rod to the waste assembly unit attached to the plughole and connect the rods with the clip provided.

Installing a pedestal basin

  • If you are installing a pedestal basin, position the pedestal to hide the pipes.
  • Rest the basin squarely on top of the pedestal - using a spirit level to ensure it is level - and mark the fixing points with a pencil.
  • Drill the holes and insert plugs.
  • Place washers over the screw holes in the sink and screw the sink to the wall.
  • When the sink is securely in place, connect the bottle trap to the waste pipe.
  • Connect the flexible connectors to the supply pipes with a compression fitting. Use an adjustable spanner to screw on the connectors whilst bracing the supply pipe with slip-joint pliers.
  • Squeeze silicone sealant around the joint between basin and wall or floor.
  • Turn the water back on.

Fitting basins and bidets

Fitting basins and bidets Washbasins come in a wide selection of styles that include pedestal basins, countertop basins and wall-mounted basins. When choosing a new basin for your bathroom the considerations of space, style, ease of cleaning and the type of walls you have should influence your decision. To install a bidet, follow the same installation process as for basins.

ponds oh ponds

well after finding a dead fish and frog in the pond this week, i decied it was time to empty the pond, oh man what a task i really must get a proper pump.
Still my son really enjoyed catching the fish in his net as the water went down with me pouring buckets done the drawn, chacking them of course in case i caught a fish.
So after a couple of hourse we had a bucket full of frogs and a bath full of fish.
Then we cut out the weed, wow theres a swimming pool in my garden now.
But the lawn stinks.

Friday, 23 January 2009

Gate posts

Well last night I went to go out and shut the gate only to find that the post had come away from the wall again. I guess its only to be expected as I live in a victorian terrace. Still I was surprised at how easy it was to repair. Me and my son set about removing the rotten wood from the solid stone wall, then we packed it again with new wood, which we cemented in. While this was setting we bashed the screws out of the post and found some new ones.
Once the cement was set, all we had to do was line it up and use a power driver to screw the post in position. Job done.
Now all i have to do is to cement around it.

isnt it funny how once youve got some good advice and had a go, DIY isnt that hard at all. So what are you waiting for get on with it.

DIY gate maintenance

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